Prada brings colors and transparencies to its spring and summer collection


SAO PAULO CADERNO 2 COLUNA ALICE FERRAZ 31-03-2022 Montagem de fotos para a coluna de Alice Ferraz. Com alfaiataria que propositalmente parece amassada, transparência e cores pouco saturadas, a Prada apresentou uma coleção subversiva e intelectual. Fotos Prada

The name Miuccia Prada is an icon in the modern fashion world’s hall of fame. It is often praised and respected. The Italian woman who took over the family footwear business and made it one of the most sought-after brands worldwide is well-known for being an intelligent woman and a lover of the arts. Her fashion was a complex blend of commercial and intellectual.

Miuccia was the brand’s creative director since 1988, when the first Prada clothing line was launched. She remained solo until 2020 when Belgian Raf Sins was named co-creative director.

Simons is another prominent figure in the fashion world. Simons has been the creative behind his eponymous brand since 1994. He has a long list of highly successful pieces for brands like Calvin Klein and Dior. His work is always well-received by both journalists and specialized critics. These two brilliant minds combine to create a fashion based on conversations; the brand has adopted this word.

Prada hosts a dialogue between them after each collection, in which fashion is created from the intellectual and creative process. Or a trialogue, like the Milan collection for spring/summer 2023. Miuccia says, “Translating the idea into reality is an important task.”

Raf says, “It’s an instinctive, natural, and ongoing process.” Nicolas Winding Refn from Denmark, who was asked to create an immersive experience for the new collection, says, “We are three people, all looking to find the gold in creativity.” Refn was also responsible for Drive, a blockbuster that debuted in 2011, and the controversial Neon Demon thriller, starring Elle Fanning, in which the Los Angeles fashion world is presented darkly and scarily.

NEON TONES. All the presentations of the collection were illuminated with neon colors. Models walked down a beige catwalk and crossed black porticoes. The scenography was topped with windows that allowed you to see scenes from Refn’s colorful universe.

The colors here are not what we are used to. The filmmaker who created the scene sees them differently because he’s colorblind. These vibrant colors don’t convey joy or lightness but rather a sense of drama and a particular lugubriousness.

The catwalk is filled with clothes that match the scene’s mood. It could all be light, but it’s not. This creates a strange look that stimulates the mind and causes it to seem drab. However, it is still beautiful and very modern. Miuccia Prada is the only person who can create a color palette and stunning, unique combinations. Greens, pinks, oranges are in less saturated tones, with intense black, off-white, and gray. You can add transparencies to the mix, but they don’t have the expected effect.

Instead of the ethereal and the voyeuristic, we have the dramatic. While the tailoring is flawless, it gives the body a fresh look. As if they were windows that let in the inside. This conversation of subversions is best illustrated by the look of black hot pants worn underneath vaporous yellow shorts.


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